At The Heart of the Table is a photographic essay on values, purpose, and meaning beyond the plate. It celebrates independent restaurants through the people who run them. Each story features a different Cambridge restaurant and explores the values, purpose, and personal commitments that shape their work — from community and heritage to sustainability and ecosystem — revealing what truly matters beyond the plate.

 

Fin Boys through my lens

Growing up in Marseille, fish has always been at the centre of every family gathering - from barbecued Seabass, to oven-baked John Dory with Saffron Potatoes, or my dad's infamous Bouillabaisse.

When I moved to the UK 20 years ago I didn't expect how little fish people eat over here (outside of the occasional fish & chips) - especially when living on an island!

So when Richard Stokes and Jay Grimshaw opened Fin Boys in Cambridge in 2021 I was overjoyed, and I've been wanting to celebrate their work for a long time. No wonder I chose them as my first stop for 'At the Heart of the Table'.

Close-up of a fresh fish head with silvery scales and prominent eye on a rustic plate against dark background.
Two hanging figures in a dark room cast dramatic shadows against a stark industrial background.
A raw tuna steak with visible marbling sits on a wooden cutting board under dim lighting.
Close-up macro view of raw octopus tentacles with suction cups arranged in a row showing detailed texture.

Fresh As It Gets


Fish gets delivered every morning, caught and served same day. "We'd rather sell out if it means fish is at its freshest everyday" Jay told me.

And this ethos runs through how every single ingredient is sourced - only in season when it's at its best, local when possible, and only from the best suppliers who share the same values of quality and sustainability.

Their Mussels for example are exclusively grown on ropes suspended in deep water (a highly eco-friendly farming method), in the highest grade of water quality in the country.

Seeing the fish being prepared that day was mesmerising: Chalk Stream Trout, Halibut, John Dory, Pollock - all prepared with precision, care, and a passion for utilising as many parts of the fish as possible. The bulk of the Trout that day was served cured in Kombu for lunch and its belly was used to make an utterly delicious Trout Rillette for the evening tasting menu.

A modern coffee shop interior with wood paneled walls, pendant lighting, and a counter display of coffee equipment and products.
Fresh oysters being served on a bed of crushed ice in a restaurant setting, with hands reaching to select them.
Restaurant worker with tattoo on arm placing food containers into a large industrial refrigerator with multiple shelves.
Person with tattooed arm seasoning food in a large white container in a kitchen setting.
A series of food preparation photos showing someone in a navy apron plating dishes in a restaurant kitchen.
A sequence of images showing someone eating a large triangular slice of pizza in multiple bites.
Glass mason jars with handwritten labels containing spices and ingredients sit on a rustic wooden shelf in dim lighting.
Fresh oranges and dark red tomatoes arranged with brown Jerusalem artichokes on a wooden surface in warm lighting.
Someone in a blue shirt holds up a freshly caught fish in a kitchen with a pendant light and clock visible in background.

The star of the show


The food, oh the food! We've talked about how each ingredient is carefully sourced to be at its very best, but we haven't mentioned how inventive the dishes are.  Blending in fresh local ingredients with influences from all over the world.  Poached Prawns with a Gochujang Emulsion & Mountain Peppercress. Pan fried Stone Bass on the most delicious Artichoke Risotto combined with the crunch of artichoke crisps and hazelnuts. Pan-fried Orkney Scallops on Kholikari Rice with Scallop Offal, XO, Crisp rice, Soy Egg and Fuikake. Housemade Crumpet with Smoked Haddock & Cacio Pepe!

Working your way through either the a-la-carte or the tasting menu is like being taken on a journey around the finest the world has to offer — each course a new destination, each flavour combination a perfectly chosen custom-made souvenir.

Wine being poured over seared tuna steaks served on rustic brown plates on a wooden table in a restaurant setting.
Pan-seared fish fillets served on a bed of greens with mango chunks and herb oil on a turquoise ceramic plate.
Sushi rolls coated in black sesame seeds arranged on a blue ceramic plate sitting on a wooden table.
A craft cocktail with citrus garnish served in a ribbed crystal glass on a dark surface with dramatic lighting.
Hands pouring and straining cocktail ingredients between metal shakers in sequence showing mixology technique.
Fresh oysters on dark stone plates sit on a wooden table with wine glasses in the background.
Four elegant coupe glasses filled with golden martini cocktails sit on a wooden surface in moody lighting.
A plated fish dish with colorful spices and herbs served on a rustic wooden surface in dramatic lighting.
A red cocktail with a large spherical ice cube and orange peel garnish sits in a crystal glass casting dramatic shadows.
Asian-style seafood soup with grilled fish and mushrooms served in a black stone bowl on wooden table.
A sequence of cocktail glasses filled with orange and red drinks on a wooden bar surface in dim lighting.
A slice of meringue tart with toasted marshmallow topping served on a turquoise plate on a wooden table.

Up close and personal


With an open kitchen and about half of the seats around the counter,  every chance to speak to the team and to hear their passion and knowledge is maximised. And it's not just the owners Jay and Richard, the whole team has been there since Day 1 and share the same contagious passion.

Watching them work together in a minimal space was fascinating - everyone was always a step ahead of what the other one needed and when the team gets on so well and care about each other, you know they'll take great care of their customers.

Restaurant interior with wooden tables set with wine glasses and cutlery on white tablecloths against black chairs.
Patrons sit at a rustic wooden bar with pendant lighting in a cozy restaurant interior.
Rustic wooden restaurant interior with dark bar counter, shelves of bottles, and black leather bar stools.
Two people work together behind a wooden bar counter in a restaurant with pendant lighting and shelving on the wall.
The image shows a person's hands preparing a meal, with a bowl of steaming liquid and a plate of food on a wooden table.
Person in blue apron holds wine bottles showing labels against neutral background.
Someone in a navy blue t-shirt tears apart a large loaf of fresh-baked bread on a wooden cutting board.
Two chefs in aprons work in a cozy kitchen with bookshelves, focused on food preparation under warm lighting.
An elderly couple enjoying a cozy conversation over a drink in a rustic setting with potted plants.
A person sitting in a cozy wooden cabin interior with shelves and appliances visible.
Chef plating a gourmet fish dish with greens on a ceramic plate in a restaurant kitchen.

To finish


From the way every member of the team would take time to tell me about the origin of the ingredients they were preparing, what they do to get the very best out of each product, or insisted that I tried so many samples of the food, I could tell that they all have a passion for sharing food in their blood. And to me, this is hospitality at its best.

A storefront window displays 'FISH BUTCHERY' text in white letters against a dark background.
A dark storefront window displaying illuminated signage for 'FIN BOYS' and 'FISH BUTCHERY' at night.